Tuesday, September 29, 2009

the little things.

I've noticed in my wanderings throughout the city that it is the little things that seem to make the biggest impression on me. The dilapidated bicycle on the side of the road or the cracked flower pot in the shuttered window. Its these little things that we dont have back in Los Angeles at least. If we do its just run down looking, somehow here its charming and intriguing. Maybe its just because its Italian but its just more aesthetically pleasing to see a rusty bike leaning up against a stone building centuries old than a concrete skyscraper built seven years ago.

I had time this morning so I took the slightly longer way to class and wandered through

the busy streets, trying to take time to notice all these little things. On the one main street I take to school is filled with store windows intriguing and beautiful enough to fill up a persons artistic comprehension (ok so I dont know if thats a thing, but Im jut gonna go for it..) for the day. One of my favorite stores is a wedding dress store called Atelier Aimèe. Ive never really been one of those girls that plans out every detail of their wedding ahead of time, never had any really ideas about any sort of thing like it really, just figured its so far into the future that why deal with stuff like that now. But every day I pass this store I am seriously tempted to go in and start trying on each of the beautiful dresses. Then I figure once I do that I will end up talking myself into needing one, you know just to hang out in, so I walk on the other side of the street and gaze at a safe distance.

I also always kept passing this little church. Yet day after day it would be closed. Naturally, I was intrigued and desperately wanted to go in, more just because it was closed than anything ( I figured it would be amazing I mean it is a church in Florence right?) This whole week though I have been gravely disappointed each day I have walked by, only to find people sitting on the steps eating a panino (no, not a typo in italian 1 sandwich is a panino and more than one is panini so really when you order 1 panini in the usa you should receive several) and drinking beer's (in Italy it is legal to drink and have open bottles of alcohol in the streets, so when you come visit me dont be surprised when several people walk by drinking open huge bottles of beer and what not). But finally today as I was walking by I glanced, saw the usual crowed, and I continued walking. But then heard intense organ music. Turning around I saw that the cute little church, Chiesa di Santa Maria de' Ricci, was indeed open! I ventured in and was enveloped by overpowering organ music. It was incredible to hear such sound resonating throughout such a tiny little church. The high ceilings allowed the sound to fill up every inch of the building and surround you totally. Like everything else in the church, the organ was not that large but the sound it produced was incredible. There was only one other man in the whole building siting in the front row, a little old man and was swaying back and forth and moving his hands as if he was conducting the music. The phenomenal sound, the little conductor man, the dim candle lighting in the middle of the afternoon was all a truly wonderful experience.

I had to tear myself away to go to my language class in which we further analyzed La Testa degli Italiani. Today we spoke about italian driving. A truly different driving experience than any other city. To Florentines, lanes are only suggestions of where maybe to drive, blinkers make nice noises only to be used when one feels like to, speed limits do not actually limit anyone, if you dont fit into a space while parallel parking - no problem just sorta park in the space with the rest of your car sticking out into the lane, pedestrians and bicyclists should stop for you after all a cross walk and just more suggestions in the road like the other lanes. Note : if walking in Florence always be on your guard, you never know when a car or vespa might come rumbling through at 900 mi/hr.

After, we had our history of Florence class. We spoke about the past government of Florence which got a little dense. In general though the class is very interesting. I always knew Florence had a deep history but never knew to what degree. Since so much of the Renaissance happened here, American history classes tend to only focus on that aspect of Florentine history but there are so many more interesting things in Florences's past that helped shape the wonderful city.

Friday, September 25, 2009

and this is only the beginning...





With sore blistered feet, twenty something bug bites, and a greater appreciation for the smell of leather, my first
week here, as incredible as it is to say, is over. Im still waiting for someone to come and pinch me or shake me awake from this dream. To think I get to be in one of the most beautiful, and exciting cities in the world for an entire year is overwhelmingly astonishing. Everywhere you look there is something different, distinctive, and
dazzling. The beauty is everywhere here from the crooked little alleyways, the alters on street corners, fruit and vegetable vendors stands,
(some of) the graffiti on the walls (note: I am not condoning graffiti on buildings just remarking that somehow Italians have found a way to not just do the standard tag graffiti over used in Los Angeles but have left their mark with some artistic feat I could only dream of producing) and so much more. Every step you take there is something new to discover, so dont be too jealous that I get to walk by the Duomo ever day on my way to school, it just happens to be the fastest route.

We started our week moving into our host family's house. I am living with a family of four, and one other girl, Claire, from Smith. The parents are named Lucia and Fillippo, and have two children a 13 year old boy, Vieri, and a 16 year old girl, Maria Chiara. They own a bicycle shop which is down the street from the apartment we are all living in ( yes it is one of those that has old stone on the outside, a huge wooden front door that is impossible to open, but once opened - after many failed attempts I might add - its a pretty modern two story apartment). So far they have been nothing but welcoming and overly nice. Im sure with time and getting to know one another, and once we are more well adjusted to each other and living together (not to mention my italian bit improved) it will become even better.

The first week of orientation was a blur of all things Italian. Cooking, art history, language, history, and conversation classes kept me busy and excited about each new thing. Learning about a city that has buildings older than my country and then actually being able to go and see them on the same day will never cease to amaze me. After learning and lusting after so many pieces of art, cathedrals, and worldly monuments for so long, to be able to see them in person, and not having to squint at a slightly off focus projector, fills me to the brim with happiness. The tastes and smells that fill the air of the Italian streets seep their way into my already full senses and will, Im sure, permanently remain there. Cheese, bread, salami, olive oil, gelato - will never be the same for me after this year, I can already tell even after only one week.

When in our cooking class, the sent of basil that filled the kitchen was so strong I most likely still smell like it, yet when combined with other things probably picked that morning was so discrete it made you wonder where it all went. Cooking in Italy is a truly sensory experience. With the recipe we received for the class there was not a single measurement or direction of what to do, only a list of the things we would be putting in each dish. Everything was done by memory, feel and taste. And yes it all tasted amazing. We made Pappa al Pompdoro, a soup like dish the main ingredients being bread and tomatoes, and vegetable broth, and let it become a nice thick consistency. Next, Panzella, a dish made with bread soaked in water, which you then squeeze out so it becomes a cous-cous like consistency, (see picture to the side for a Vanna White like demo-pic of Lenora and myself) then add vegetables and basil. After was Pollo in Friscassea, in which we covered the chicken in flour and cooked it in olive oil, later adding in the left over broth from the papa al pomodoro, an egg and basil of course. Lastly, we made Tiramisu (see picture).
Normally I do not like tiramisu, but when it is had made with hand- soaked biscotti in the liquore, and fresh mascarpone how could you not?


With our art history class we explored the San Miniato al Monte church which rests on top of a little hill overlooking the central part of Florence. While climbing the steep stone stairs, the eagle-toped church begins to appear followed by marbled facade and finally its arched doorways. It is yet another breathtaking church in Florence. Intricately laced and patterned marble floors fill the center nave of the church while colorful frescos of saints line the walls. In every detail truly breathtaking.


Wandering and exploring the city this past week have been filled with adventures. Finding new places to go to, restaurants, shops and everything in between there is never a dull moment. While leisurely wandering in the general direction of my house one afternoon, I came across the Duomo Museum hidden between tourist shops. You would never know from the outside that it opens up to a four storied building, filled to the brim with all of the original artwork and statues found in and on the Duomo. Most everything was in remarkably good condition for being place on the facade of the Duomo so many years ago. As I walked up the stairs I began to salivate as I saw Michaelangelo's Pietà. Originally intended for his own tomb, it depicts Michaelangelo himself as Nicodemus, one of the two men that took Jesus of the cross. It remains unfinished because he died before he was able to complete it and therefore was never placed on his tomb. I think i spent about 45 minutes alone just staring at this statue taking in its beauty. Unknowingly tears formed in my eyes, and in broken italian/english I tried to explain to this older German woman that indeed everything was alright, I was just overcome by the statue. I dont think she really understood me, or if she did why it was having this effect on me, but she was content enough that I was not going to have a melt down so she went on her way. The drastic contrast between the very defined figure on the right of the statue and the rougher statues on the right are incredible. To be able to see the midway process of how someone might get from a hunk of marble to something so incredible is fascinating to see.

After only a week I am already in complete love with this city, and can hardly wait for the coming weeks and moths to continue to discover more of the absolutely amazing place.