Sunday, November 29, 2009

Italian Chaos

ok so I know I promised that I would not wait 800 years before I wrote again, and then promptly went and took forever to get this written. Im a terrible person I know. well at least a terrible blogger. This time though I have a very valid reason. My harddrive crashed. funny enough while I was writing a post. Thankfully autosaved happened before the crash. But only autosave on my post, not any of my other important documents or anything. yay! Living without a computer for a week is a really odd experiece. Especially here since it is my main mode of communication with the living world back on the other part of the world. I can just say I really didnt like it at all. And how am I writing this you wonder? Well I would like to tell you that I have figured out a way to communicate with the internet through my brain but Im still working on that one. Giovanna was so kind to give me her microscopic (seriously never seen a laptop this small - my hands barely fit on it. haha) laptop until mine gets fixed, which is a undertemined time in the somewhat future. Even though they said they would put a rush on it, that was over a week ago and I am still without Rex (aka laptop).  Anyway, technology trouble asside, I guess I have about 9 weeks to report about... sorry this might be long. I wont be offended/know if you get board.
Literally the day after I last wrote I came down with some sort of illness which was very not fun. I was happy that it did not turn into swine flu which is going around pretty heavily and rapidly here. Yet I was still home sick Thursday and Friday feeling very not good. Saturday rolled around however and I finally felt better, was able to do some work (horray!....) and later that night went out to dinner with Sera. We were really in the mood for mexican food, and tried the two places we knew and even for two people there as not a table available. After wandering for what seemed like hours - but in reality was most likely only a half an hour- we ended up at this American pub/restaurant, called (you ready?) House of Sizzle. Yes I can actually hear the gasps that you all just made when you read the word American. You are all thinking... you are in Italy, whyyyy would you want to go ear American food? Well for starters, it was the only place that could take us without a reservation. This was an important factor. Secondly, we were both craving things that were not pasta. If anyone can believe it I actually ordered a hamburger. Yes you did read that correctly. I had my first hamburger here in Italy that I have had in probably over 8 years. Mind boggling. And yes I did like it. And did finish it all. If no one believes me, I have documented proof. (well I did. grazie hard drive failure for taking away my pictures. aka pictures for this post will come once I get my computer back and can figure out what I actually still have.)

Sunday was filled with studying and homework for midterms that were rapidly approaching in the following week. The rest of the week actually followed in a similar fashion of studying and reading and working. Monday I took my Italian Literature exam, which I had missed when I was sick the previous Thursday. Wednesday was our History of Costume and Fashion midterm. And finally Thursday was Art History. A very intense week of test taking to say the least. By thursday afternoon my brain was just a little bit fried. But they all went well enough and they are over most importantly. I do however have our  Literature midterm (that one last week was just a test...) next week and our Stylistics midterm as well, so its not quiiitee over yet. But close. So close...

On Thursday after our exam, Sera and I successfully managed to go to another University of Florence class.  This is actually a big deal since the university system here is so wacky that the likelihood of there actually being a class when the schedule says is about 50%. Nevertheless we found the history of cinema class we had gone to once before and learned about italian film in the 1960s. Its really incredible to see how many people really pay attention, because for the great majority no one does. I think Sera and I were the only two people, in a class of about 50, that were actually trying to pay attention and not reading, texting, talking, drawing or sleeping.
Feeling like we needed to give our brains a night off from intense thinking we decided to go to the movies with some of our Italian friends. They all wanted to see 2012, which I dont think I would have seen in English but the fact that it was in Italian made it very hilarious. In the end everyone bailed out and it ended up only being Sera, Alessio, Dino and I that went to the movie, which was fun. It was very different to be in a small group for once as opposed to our normal group of 78. I was quite pleased that for the great majority of the movie this time I could understand what was going on and follow much more of the plot than the last Italian movie that I saw (then again Im not convinced I would have understood it in english..). I dont know really what to think about that really though, since it was about the end of the world , does that mean Im well versed in apocalyptic vocabulary to get myself ready? I really hope not...Or maybe I have just watched way too many world ending, fighter movies and tv shows that I know that vocabulary too well...

Friday I went back to my internship at the Uffizi bright and early. Arriving promptly at 9am several things occured. 1. Only the man at the front desk was there. 2. He had no idea who I was even though I see him every week and have been introduced to him several times 3. He called someone else over so I could explain to both of them why I was there and why I had a ID badge and neither of them had ever seen me before, 4. I finally co0nvinced them that I was not there to steal the library and they let me go to my usual computer post 5. The books that I usually work with were MIA - and there was no one to ask, since they obviously had no idea why I was there 6. I sat and swivled in my chair for a half and hour waiting for someone that I knew to come 6. The second man finally realized that he had infact seen me before and that he knew exactly where the books that I needed were and he would fetch them for me 7. A legit crazy italian lady whirls her way into the library bringing with her so much confusion and chaos. 8. I sit and listen to her mutter in Italian to herself about why the computer wont work 9. She asks me for help with the computer 10. I have no idea what is wrong with it (note how good I am with technology lately), and she notices through my not so hot italian that I am american and about shreaks her head off 11. She insists that she is from New York - untrue by the thick Italian accent and her jeans. 12. Inch my way back to my computer to find the program not working 13. Swivel in my chair for another half an hour waiting for it to work again 14. Realize its one o'clock and I can go.
I spent the rest of the day exploring and hunting around the city, not really doing much but enjoying my surroundings. That night it was another one of our Italian friends birthday's, Alessio (no not the same one as mentioned before, there are now two. - I have realized Italians seem to only name their childeren one of a handful of names which leads to much confusion). We all went out in the center to a little pub by Santa Croce called Kikuya. It ended up only being Sera and Me from the American group and almost every Italian that we know (Fillippo, Alex, Alessio 1, Alessio 2, Simone 1, Simone 2 and I am most likely forgetting someone) + three random girls (not random they were friends of someone I just never met any of them before). Sitting listeing to old school American 90s music in an English pub in Italy was just a little bit funny to me, but somehow it worked. We found Jenga on our table when we arrived and promptly started playing. Dont worry I did managed to topple everything over. After, the girls - who for some reason were verry annoyed that Sera and I were there, and kept on commenting about how we didnt know any Italian and it was annoying -because i didnt hear over the loud music what she said- very defensivly though Fillippo stood up for me about how I knew italian and spoke it and could understand her. She was quiet for a bit until they thought it would be a fun idea to play telephone in Italian. Clearly doing this only so we would look like idiots they passed around odd itaial phrases none of which when it was passed to me made any sense or sounded anything more that odd words. Needing to have a little bit of a revenge Sera and I started one in english which inevitably everyone messed up.

I sletp in a little on Saturday, and decided to blogg for a bit before I stated homework. Then my harddrive crashed. Disbelieving and hopeing it really wasnt my harddrive I took it to one of the only Mac stores in Florence (and prolly Italy for that matter). With one look the guy told me it was my harddrive and it would be about a week. Its been a week. I would like my computer back. (sorry Im bitter and miss my computer)
After computer fiascos I met up with Sera to poke around some stores and spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around. After dinner that night I met up with Dino and we went for a walk in a park right by the Arno, and talked as best as we could with my 4th grade italian.

Sunday was spent studying for my upcoming week of more midterms and more work and more papers and more reading.. I did take a lunch break with Sera to hunt out some Chinese food, which was very good and very different than the usual pasta/ panino.The begining of the week was rather uneventful. Monday after class, not really wanting to go home just yet (not for any reason really - stay assured I really like my family here) I helped Giovanna look up recipies for the upcoming Thanksgiving feast she was preparing for us.
Tuesday I had my Literature midterm, and after classes that day I went to another University of Florence class. This time the methodologies of contemporary art. I have to admit even for me who really likes everything they were talking about, the class was a little boring. Maybe it was because four students were giving a presentation, and I found it really hard to hear them over the construction, and traffic noises let alone understand them. And the professor kept on inturrupting them after every sentance either correcting or telling them something they should have done better or asking them a ridiculous question. He seemed like the professor all the older students warn you against taking his class. However, throughout the room which sat about 100 people on some of the desks were incredible drawings of famous sculptures, painints, and buildings inevitably coppied from the slides. On Sera's desk there was a miniture verson of Michalangelo's Pieta perfectly drawn in pencil. The desk in front of me there was his David. A few rows back Santa Maria Novella was chilling a few seats away from La Guernica by Picasso. I really want to meet whoever did these. They are all absolutly amazing.
The highlight of the rest of the week was Thanksgiving at Giovanna's house. Giovanna, Monica, and Pam (cooking teacher from orientation) all slaved away for days to make sure that we all had a American Thanksgiving dinner even though we are in Italy. Giovanna said after that this was the first turkey she has ever made, and was worried that she would ruin it - well it was delishious. Complete with stuffing, corn bread, mashed potatoes, green beans + peanuts we literally had a feast (dont worry Mom, I was still missing your food with every bite.) It was a very lovely eveing, and everyone, Americans and Italians alike (yes all our professors were invited and came) had a very good time. Giovanna's husband played music for us on his fiddle, we sang Thanksgiving songs ( I didnt know there were such things), and I played with Cocco and Sparkey (Giovanna's dogs) since I am highly dog deprived.

I spent Friday morning at the Uffizi as usual, and without any issues I am happy to report. After I met up with Sera and we went to Cassa Buonarroti - a itiy bity museum of all things Michaelangelo. Natually I loved it, especially since Michaelangelo is my favorite sculptor. I really enjoyed seeing all the models and seeming miniature statues of his, many studies for much larger statues later. To me, i like seeing the that the steps that go into making such remarkable art work and seeing that they are just as amazing and impressive.
That night, wanting a mellow night, Sera, Chrysanthe, Steph and I headed out with Alessio 1&2, Simone 1&2, Alex, Fillippo, and Dino  to a german bar called Braumeister, How is a group that large mellow and relaxing you ask. well the alternative was to go to a discoteca,so large goup + german bar or large group + disco... hmm. Lots of confusion and Italian whirled around all night, leaving me overwhelmed sometimes but all in all a good night.

Saturday I spent the day re-organizing my room and doing some unwanted studying. That night after dinner I watched one of the Tim Allen Sant Clause movies (in italian) with Vieri, chuclking to myself about the bad dubbing of italian films and the over all ridiculousness of the movie (dont get me wrong I a big fan of the first one). After the movie, Dino picked me up and we attempted to go into the center but forgetting that the Florence Marathon was the next day and almost every steet was blocked off and about 90000000 more people were in the city to see it, parking was a little bit of an issue. Giving up after 35 mins of driving aroudn with no hope of ever finding a parking spot for anything other than a vespa, we ended up going up to Fiesole (about 10 mins ourside of Florence). Even there we had to wait 20 mins before parking was found - I was convinced that Florence had doubled in population over night. The town itself consists of on main piazza, a few stores and resturaunts and two pubs. I think most of the bars that I have seen here has been of another nationality other than Italian - there are countless Irish bars, a few Scottish, some German, and even an Australian one (even though I do know really know what that means). We went to one of the two, J.J. Hill, and talked over the crowd and eventualy ended up playing darts. It goes without saying I am not good. This requires hand eye corrdination, I have zero.

Sunday morning the craziness at home started early. Vieri's birthday is tomorrow and he was having 16 of his friends over for lunch + festivites in the afternoon. After he departed for his soccer game, and Lucia and Fillippo went out to watch the marathon for a little while, which I could literally see from my window which was pretty neat wo watch for a little bit, I started to get some work done before the 90 tweenagers arrived. at 12 sharp the doorbell rang and they started to come, even though Vieri was still at soccer. After everyone had arrived including the bithday boy, I ventured out of my room into chaos to help Lucia who I could hear yelling and beggin for people to do this and stop that. Arriving just in time to help get lunch on the table, Maria Chiara and I, as fast as we could, spooned kilos of pasta onto plates. When the last one was finnished we were both shocked that all the mounds of past were gone.We both then stood silently, not being able to hear our own thoughts let alone talk, and watched, and listened. If anyone thinks that American childeren are loud by themselves, let alonewhen they are all together, then you ovbiously have not been around a group of Italian children. I just observed and I am tired from all the energy that they expelled.
Now I think I should recharge this energy, for school tomorrow, but more importantly it is Vieri's actually birthday and if today was any indication for tomorrow I feel like I am going to need some rest...

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

lets do the time warp againnn...

I think I failed a little bit at my blog this week. Im very sorry. every day I was like ok - finish work then update your avid followers on life. Then the work just kept on coming. and coming. and coming. This past week was kind of a joke about how much work they decided to give us. Literally I dont really know how I got it all done. That time warp that Ive been talking about -Ii think it worked in my favor this time and created an extra hour or two and somehow let me finish everything. Granted I do know how much work we get at Smith - yet not in my... 2 years (it  sounded longer in my head).. have I had as much work as I did last week. anyyywhooo tutte bene. :)
I feel like instead of making you read about ever single one of my days that have passed since we last spoke Ill give you a general overview and some specific highlights. 'Cause lets face it no one wants to read something 897 pages long.

The first thing of note since last I wrote was my first day at the Uffizi library. To say the least I was a little nervous. I woke up at leas 9 times the night before paranoid that my alarm was not going to go off. Thankfully it did, and I made it there in plenty of time. Making it to the museum and then into the library presented a small problem. Since it was my first day, I did not have my official Uffizi card and therefore when I showed up at the door to get into the library ( which happenes to be a fire door but the alarm will not go off if you open it, they just apparently say that so people dont - note I do not recommend trying this with other doors...) Anyway. I got to the door that Giovanna and I had gone through the previous week, told the (unfriendly) security woman why I was there, and why I needed to go up to the library. She however would have non of it. Telling me the library was closed, that I would have to come back later, and when I did I would have to go thorough security through the main door (already a 2 hour wait and the museum was not open yet) to get it, she closed the door. By now its 8:54am and Im beginning to get a little worried about how Im actually going to get inside. One call to Giovanna solved everything. In the end the man at the front desk of the library came to fetch me, and let me in (yes through the same door that was just shut in my face) and brought me up to the so called closed library. The very open library is quite a sight. It is lined with bookshelves for books bigger than you could handle, and just incase the book self cant either there are rough iron caging on all the shelving. The library itself is two floors (sounds small for all the books but its only a small portion, I found out later that there are a few other locations). On both sides of the long hallway, there are large windows, and also is decorated with frescoed angles, and mythical characters. Down the center of the walkway of the room there are two sets of dark brown desks that run the entire length of the room. (see the very slypicture I took when everyone left the library)


For the first hour or so I had to do some official looking paper work with a woman that worked there, Silvia. Signing confidentiality agreements, giving contact information, being told how to use certain things - all pretty official and daunting. After that the woman that I had met with last week came out to explain to me what I would be doing. She brought with her a huge book - probably 15x9in - which held a list of all the books in their collection. What I would be doing would be reading the entries, entering the title on a particular program on the computer, and if it came up write down the system number. Sounds simple enough right? Well that means you have never tried to read Italian cursive. Very pretty to look at, but impossible to read - for an American at least. All the letters are perfectly curved and linked together in a perfectly formed line of letters all the same size. So really first decipher, then enter, then write is what Im more or less doing. So after a while I was getting used to the cursive - not so bad (some of them at lease), and at least I can understand the Italian ones I was thinking to myself. And then the German started. Talk about a oddly written language. Literally have no idea what any of those books could possibly be about - only that they relate in some way shape or form to art.



Next  - Halloween. Let me start of by saying that Halloween is probably on of my favorite holidays. Dressing up + receiving free candy = awesome day. Halloween in Italy is more of a new 'invention' really. In their quest to be more American (why I am still trying to figure out), they have adopted
Halloween. However, everyone seems to celebrate or not celebrate at different degrees. My family for example laughed when I brought up Halloween. Not going to be discouraged by the lack of celebration a big group of Smith and Italian friends alike headed out to celebrate in some sort of fashion. We went to a place called BeBop, a little music bar in the center. In a festive spirit, they had put up (minimal) decorations which were appreciated on my part. The cover band for the night also sported some attempts of costumage - boas, tall leather boots, bandanas, leather things were all sported (please note the band were all guys). The crowd ranged from fully decked out costumes, odd pieces (like eye patches - not not lying), to normal every day italian clothing. Not deterred by the mismatched Halloween spirit we continued to have a good night (as pictured both with Sera and Oliva to the right and Oliva to the left), listening to an eclectic assortment of music, laughing, and general merriment.

The beginning of last week was pretty uneventful. Class and school and homework and italian all ensued.  I did successfully finally get to a University of Florence class - which in my book was a big deal. Its really incredible how disorganized the Italian university system is. I finally found a class that worked with my schedule, and that was actually happening - for me a small miracle. Sera ended up coming with me and we sat in on a History of Cinema class. The room was filled with students who for the most part talked throughout the entire class, while others came in late and left early. The professor said nothing - just continued talking the entire class. Well that is after he got off his phone that he answered within the first 5 minutes of the class. It was interesting to see some of the big differences between the italian classes and students and Smith - lots to say the least.

Friday came another day at the Uffizi, which was a little bit easier this time since I was a little more used to the perfect cursive. During the afternoon I wandered the city with Alayna attempting to find a open shop to look at boots, but to no avail. We had the brilliant idea of going out at 230. Everything closes for lunch at 2:30 and does not open again until 3:30 or 4. Needless to say we did not find anything.
That night after dinner - despite the warnings from every person I met prior to my arrival in Italy - I went out to the movies with a boy, Dino (yes I know you immediately thought of a dinosaur)  I met through some of my Italian friends. To everyone who has told me to not trust italian boys and are now thinking to yourself how I could have possibly gone against your warnings - dont worry all advice is lodged in my brain. I was a little nervous because although my Italian is good enough to get by, its not top notch by any means, and the thought of having to hold a continuous  conversation in Italian was a little daunting, especially since he can only speak literally 2 sentences in English.  We ended up going to the movies, which meant not a night of continuous talking for me which was fine, but also meant watching a movie in Italian. The 30 minute car ride to the theatre when very well, not to many miss understandings, confusion, or miscommunications on my part and was able to keep a conversation flowing for the great part of it.  We ended up seeing 'The men who stare at goats', in Italian of course. Throughout the whole movie he would check in to make sure I got what was going on, and what they were talking about - cause lets face it they dont really teach you military terms in school. Only missing a smalllll part of  the content (at least I think...) I was still a bit confused about the story itself - meaning why they would actually make the movie. It was very strange to say the lest. I was somewhat happy to hear that Dino did not like the movie either and thought it was really strange, only because that meant I did  not totally misinterpret the entire film.

The rest of the weekend passed very uneventfully - filled with homework and reading. There seems like there is always something more I can be and should be reading for school. In fact I probably should get to that now....
(ps pinky promise not to wait another 9 weeks until I write again)

Thursday, October 29, 2009

whirlwinds of medieval towns, birthday celebrations, purple, and soccer.


As im laying in bed long after I should be asleep listening to overly gushy Italian music, parts of how lucky I am are beginning to sink in. I have always been overly fortunate in my life, mainly in fact to the amazing family and friends that I am blessed to have in my life and the opportunities that have been presented to me. This experience of being here in Italy and showing me so many different ways of life, and people is continually reenforcing this fact. Little by little as the days rush past, and the more real this whole experience is becoming I am becoming more and more aware of how fortunate I am to be here and experiencing such a  life changing opportunity. Every day I try as hard as I can to take as much as I can in of the constantly busy city, the shuffle of people, and the complete emersion that we are going through. While sometimes overwhelming still, I am beginning to adjust to some parts of Italian life and wondering why they were not always like that. On the other had though there are some other things I still think I may never get used to. All in all however, the good the bad the somewhere in between is being logged somewhere in my subconscious. I dont think I have a full grasp on the entirety of this experience yet, and i might not until it is over but im trying to take it as it comes and make sure not to miss out on one minute of it.

After a very eventful weekend, Monday came with the thought that if I saw chocolate anywhere close to me I might indeed have to run fast the other direction. It also brought the third full week of classes, as hard as that is to believe. I really am beginning to believe that time is traveling at faster intervals over here, even though Italy seems to be on a slower time schedule all together. Granted I dont know how this can be the case, but when I figure it out I will give you a holla. The week itself spun past my eyes in a blur of classes, outings and a slew of other amazing things. Monday and Tuesday came and went more or less normally with classes and readings and misspoken italian (on my part).  For some reason I think both my english and my italian are getting much worse. I no longer can speak correct english and continually make grammatical mistakes that would make sense if it were translated into italian and the same with italian. Its as if my language wires got switched somehow... yet they desperately need to go back into place very soon because not being able to speak any language very well is getting a little frustrating.  So please excuse any grammatical incorrectness or awkwardness that might occur from now on. My brain is on overload and is not wanting to process correctly.

Wednesday however was a whole other story. While usually the day most hard to get through in a week because the weekend is in your sight and you can no longer say it is the beginning of the week, wednesdays tend to drag on. We however opted to not let this happen mainly in part by just starting our weekend Wednesday night. Before you go off thinking that Italy has turned me into a wild party animal who goes out in the middle of the week I must preface this by saying it was my friends birthday, and how often to you get to celebrate birthday's in Italy. Once a year to be exact - so something needed to be done in celebration. (see Ali and I psyched to birthday it up to the right) Wednesday apparently in Italy means that you can get into most places - ie movies, theaters, and discotecas - for a significantly lower price. This worked out well for the group of 25 we accumulated to celebrate Alessio's birthday. We went to a discoteca called YAB (short for You Are Beautiful - no I am not kidding).  It had just reopened for a various number of reasons all of which are still unclear because ever Italian I asked gave me a very vague different reason. But nevertheless it was packed so tight you could barely move through the disco-balled dance floor flooded with smoke from a smog machine ever 4 feet. The whole night a collection of popular American music, techno, and popular Italian music blasted through the speakers as the dj sang along and yelled things to the crowed in Italian that I could barely hear or understand over the defining crowd and music. All in all a incredibly fun night. even if I did have to wake up at 9:30 for my class the next morning...

Despite staying up way past my bedtime, Thursday was a very productive day starting with art history and followed up by a day filled with homework. Every new art history class I've taken throughout my college career so far, takes a while to adjust to the new environment of the class. I find this more true with art history classes than any other, mainly because I think of the drastically different approaches that every given professor can teach in, and the always extremely different points of views of the students in the classes. With other classes I have found that there is more of a regularity between the teaching of  courses and within the class the students have more of the same opinions because it is not usually a personal opinion based class. Here too I feel we are still in the weird adjustment period where we are trying to figure out our professor, each other and what the class is going to be like. A sorta of limbo if you will.

This limbo continued all throughout Friday. Most noticeably was I in some parallel universe when Giovanna and I went to the Uffizi library to have a meeting about a possible internship for me. Every step I took that morning was filled with excited energy and disbelief. As we entered the Uffizi - through a special, high priority door, while the extra long line of tourists gave us dirty looks- my stomach began to turn in excited and nervous knots. We entered the library and I tried with all my might to not stop in my tracks and stare with my eyes wide open. The huge stacks after stack of beautiful books in a room perfectly constructed. A domed, coffered ceiling with tall with columns and pilasters, a huge glass window at the end of the extensive room - everything was more perfect than I could have imagined. I could almost see the excitement radiating off of Giovanna as she announced we were here for an appointment for a possible internship. As we walked down the long important hall (well Giovanna more bounced than walked - she might have been more excited than I was - which mind you was pretty hard to do) the stacks of books continued and a important silence was infiltrated by our footsteps. We met with a man and a woman (I dont remember their names as horrible as that is... I was in a daze) who welcomed us eagerly and jumped right into the descriptions of what I would be doing with them. I dont think I spoke more than 7 words total the whole time,  and whereas I thought I would be entering an interview they sat me down and told me what I would be working on with them. Giovanna paused them to tell about my art history background and interest. They told me I could work on two projects. The first
helping go through and digitalize the book collection in the library. The second looking through hundreds of medieval manuscripts that were damaged during the flood and seeing what the collection contains. ummmm?? YES! I am still in disbelief that I will actually being to look at all these incredible things that normally I would only get to see in a picture, first hand! I am so excited. I start next Friday!!
 I attempted but failed miserably to do work at the Sede the rest of day with Sera, and Ali. Some how more important things kept getting in the way of very long one page papers and readings that were not understandable in the least. Finally giving up and giving into the unproductiveness we left the Sede late in the afternoon to go and accomplish more and exciting things.

Saturday we got off to a very early start (although I almost didn't thanks to my alarm not going off..) to take a mini trip to Pienza and San Gimignano, both
small cities in Tuscany. We arrived in Pienza and were given a few hours to explore the small cobble stoned city, seeing the one main piazza with the city hall building, the church and a fountain. The main street was lined with small shops selling everything from hand made linens to moth watering cheese. Pienza is known for its pecorino cheese and Im pretty sure the entire town smelled like it - it was fabulous.  (picture of me and sera on one of these said side streets- via dell'amore) The views of the Tuscan valley's from various points throughout the city were unbeatable and breathtaking. After exploring for a while, Sera, Ali and Alayna and I decided to find a place for lunch. We ended up in a restaurant of a side street through a tiny little doorway with no more than 5 tables and where the smell of strong cheese and truffles hit you like a brick. The food was amazing and hit the spot after wandering for so long in the slightly chilly air.
We then took off for San Gimignano, about an hour away from Pienza, which is a fortresses city known for the towers. Again, we aimlessly wandered through the city taking in the amazing architecture and when we found them the spectacular views. Here too the main street was lined with tiny little stores selling wine, food and random other things and most of which had wild boar heads in the windows.


Sunday was yet another day filled to the brim with activity. In the morning Sera, Lenora, Victoria, Chrysanthe and I went over to Alessio's house for a birthday brunch/lunch. We walked through
the door and were hit over the head with delicious smelling foods that filled up every inch of air space. In normal italian style people overflowed each room, and were talking loudly over one another while stuffing their faces with perfectly made home cooked traditional italian food. After filling ourselves literally until we were going to burst we had to leave early to make sure to get to the Fiorentina v. Napoli soccer game. Purple (Fiorentina's team color naturally) overflowed the stadium pouring out into the streets. As we rushed to find the right door, the cheers of hundreds of fans echoing throughout the stadium. We walked into the stadium the cheers got louder, the purple was even more intense, and the Fiorentina soccer pride was ever present. The entire stadium was cheering for Florence. Because of the intense rivalry between the two teams Napoli was only allowed to have one small section of the stadium (see side pic - the yellow is the row of police dividing the small Napoli fans from the rest of the stadium). The Florence soccer patrol banned Napoli fans from coming to prevent huge brawls. It was a good thing to because unfortunately after a very exciting game Fiorentina lost to Napoli 1-2.

Sunday, October 18, 2009

life is like a box of chocolates - seriously you never know what you are going to get.

First can someone explain to me how it is already Sunday night. Last time I checked Im pretty sure it was Wednesday. Ohi. Such a week of randoms to report.
Well retracing my steps and bringing us back to Wednesday (the real one) brought with it a few more classes, heavy wind, and the thought that perhaps I should have brought warmer clothing with me. You would think I would have realized that Italy is not always warm and su
nny as it was pictured in my head while packing. But sure enough I chose sun dresses over sweaters, and yet the warm sun left about a week ago. This is going to be fun.
Thursday brought up the end of my school week at a very late 12-noon. Its very hard to have a 3 day weekend starting at noon on Thursday. After our long day of classes Sera, Olivia and I decided to finally get some of the books we will be needing for class. Well, trying to find a tiny little book store according to Italian directions -"oh just right down that street (as they point in the direction of 6 intersecting streets ) After much effort, and a few missed turns we found the tiny book store which happened to be right next door to a chinese food + pizza place. Naturally it had to be tried. I have been craving chinese food since May yet its finally satisfied in Italy - something doesnt sound right about that. Nonetheless it was amazing. Thursday night rolled
around before I knew (that has been happening a lot I see...) and a few of us decided to go out after dinner to listen to some live music at a bar called The William near Santa Croce. What I would have assumed would have been a traditional Italian "coffee house" band proceeded to only play American music all night long.

Friday, day 1 of weekend. Although the weekend did mean that we had homework.
Being good students Sera and I decided to spend all day doing work so that we could fully enjoy the rest of the weekend. Pausing only to have lunch and be continually pestered by some of the boldest most annoying pigeons ever, (no seriously I dont like birds, but Italian birds are somehow more bold than others. Maybe its just in the air here...) we plowed through all day.
After dinner, a group of Smithies -
Sera, Victoria, (pictured with me to the left), Chrysanthe, Julie and I - accompanied by a group of Italianites (via conversation class) to a "music festival". Well not many music festivals, at least in the US of A are held in a 16th century fortress with a moat. Then again I could just be going to the wrong ones at home... Anywho. Arriving at this moated fortezza -Fortezza da basso to be exact-, we first waked around outside through the biting cold looking at the stands of food and drinks from around the world. Wandering upstairs (yes its a multi leveled fortezza) to a cultural exposition of different food, drinks, fabric and art ( strangest mix ever). As we got further inside the strong beat of heavy t
echno music seeped its way though the entire building. Following the pull of the music we made our way downstairs to the "festival" aka rave. Cigarette smoke swirled around in the air tinted green and pink with flashing lights, while hundreds of people's heads bobbed and jostled in "time" with the music. Minus the cigs, we all joined up the rest of the crowed and danced until they flipped on the overpowering florescent lights signaling it was time to leave.
(picture of everyone after a long night of dancing and fun times.)

Waking up Saturday morning with no plans I took my time getting ready and decided to finish the last bit of my homework. While finishing the last few sentences, Vieri ( my host little brother) knocked oh my door at least 5 times making sure I was still at home, that I was not going anywhere, and that I was still wanting to and planning on coming to his soccer game that he had invited me to the night before. Overexcited, he sand songs from Mama Mia throughout lunch while taking breaks only to do quickly do some soccer warm- ups. Driving to his game he continued breaking out in song and dancing in his seat. Running ahead once we got there, we called minutes after we finally found a parking spot to inform us that he would not in fact be playing today cause he did not have enough training (so said the coach) to be goalie against this team. Heartbroken for him, knowing the extreme amounts of excitement that proceeded the game, I returned home promising to come to the next one.
That night some of us decided to go out for apparativos across the Arno. After filling up with delicious food, we wandered back to the William to see if we could find some more live music there, but sure enough it was heavy metal night. So we sat for as long as we could, yelling back and forth to each other while 'enjoying' the death screams and guitar screeches.

Bright and early Sunday morning I awoke with a start as my phone was ringing with Sera telling me she would be at my house in 7 minutes for us to catch our train to Perugia for the chocolate festival.
Leaping out of bed, grabbing the first thing in my closet and hoping it matched I ran out the door to meet her as we booked it to the station for our train that would be leaving in 10 minutes.
Meeting up with Julie and Alessio(see awkward picture of people crunched together to 1. fit into a camera small frame and 2. extremely crowed by the rest of humanity) at the station and literally running to leap on the train.Catching our breaths only once seated and on our way. 2 hours later we arrived in Perugia, along with what seemed like the rest of Europe. Smashing ourselves like sardines into a bus that would take us to the city center and to the festival. Never in my life have I seen one type of food in so many different forms and in such a small radius.
The small medieval walled city of Perugia every year is taken over -literally- by everything chocolate. The City itself already known for its chocolate opens up to chocolate makers all over Italy and Europe to sell their sweet treats.
The smell of chocolate literally floats through the air.
On raised platforms sculptures carve out 'frescos' in huge hunks of chocolate that are most likely bigger than I am. Every inch of the city if covered in chocolate and filled with people. At times it was impossible to move do to the swarms of people crowded at one point.
Elbowing pushing and at times just having to stand still in a tight box of people until someone moved we made out way through the city.



However right now the last think I want to see, eat or smell is chocolate for a very long time.

Monday, October 12, 2009

and so the REAL stuff begins...

Sunday came with the realization REAL classes and REAL life in Italy was about to begin the following day. The time warp I have been in suddenly let me off into real life before I could realize it. Not wanting to face reality, Claire and I headed out for a day of wandering the city and discovering new things. Wandering to the center and up and down the streets crowded with tourists looking into the closed store windows, we spend the day discovering things we had seen many times before but failed to notice.
Finding our way to Santa Croce we happened upon a cabaret style marionette show

(and for once i was not creeped out!). Surrounded by many happy children who looked on, and danced eagerly with the marionette's swayed too and fro to classic italian music. I always enjoy watching how much kids get into things like this. They were mesmerized by these beat up wooden dolls on strings and how they moved, interacted with eachother and with the audience. Every time a song would stop, inevitably at least one kid would protest until it started up again while others cheered egging on the rest of the show. When they have to leave however is a whole other story. Kicking, screaming, desperate not to leave behind their new puppet friends (both human and wooden), parents, literally in some cases, must drag them away shat
tering all of their hearts. Yet as soon as they were leaving the Piazza their cries stopped and their marionette's forgotten, while excited about the next thing.

After our marionette show, we wandered home the long way. Giovanna had told us about an event on her street, which happened to be on Sunday, that happened once a year when artists take over the street, selling, showing off and in some cases creating new works on the spot.

Already mobbed with Italians and tourists alike (this I see is where all the Italians were this particular Sunday),
Claire and I dodged our way through the crowd while admiring the countless number of artists and their works. Aimlessly walking down the street and finding ourselves at the end, we made our way home after an eventful day of wanderings.

Monday morning came with a start and we all were hurled into classes before any of us realized. Starting out semester with Survey di letteraturea italiana (italian literature but im sure you all got that). Rapid italian word whirled around us as we learned about what the class would entail, what it would be about and just for review a brief overview of Italian literature from 1300-1500. Dazed, and with fifteen minutes to recover I took my seat in Storia del costume e moda aka history of costume and fashion Italian style. Basically Im getting credit to learn about clothes. Be jealous. When the first couple of words our of our overly Italian professor, Costanza, were Ferragamo, Armani, and Dolce & Gabbana (no mom not the gardening store), I already knew this was going to be an awesome class. Not to mention we get to go to a leather factory, the Ferragamo shoe museum, and some of the only clothing and costume museums in Italy... for class. We finished the day with Stylistics. I originally thought it would only be about grammar, words and other useful but annoying things but it seems like it will be much better than originally thought. While I am still somewhat unclear as to what the class actually entails, I believvve its how to use colloquial Italian, learn about modern Italy and to get us talking more. Yet I could be mistaken. Updates will be given.

After a long day on classes, I wandered home to rest up for day two! Day two came even earlier than the day before, but I was excited because it was our real first storia dell'arte aka art history class. Even though we had art history with the same professor during Orientation, real class seemed like it would be much different. Indeed it was. Instead of a general overview of the different styled found in Italy, we will be focusing on the (you guessed it) Renaissance. I mean really, what better place to learn (well re-learn) Renaissance art than where it began? Im stoked (yes Im a nerd, please forgive me). After art history we had our second and final Italian literature class for the week. Today was even a bigger panorama of Italian literature from 1500-present day. A very rough day ending at 1'o'clock pm I found my afternoon free to explore the very sunny city of Florence yet again.

Saturday, October 10, 2009

il fine di parte una!

It's hard to believe that our first three weeks is already over. The strange time warp that Florence has put me in is seriously beginning to mess with my mind. Without a definite schedule these past three weeks I have further felt in a parallel universe where many things have been happening around me and I have happily observed from my post. It feels like I have been in one of those science fiction films where the main character stands completely dead center of the screen, not even blinking, and the rest of the world goes by with lightning speeds and blurred vision without them noticing. While I have been trying to take in everything around me, it feels as if its been a blur of renaissance buildings, classical statues, speeding vespas, and food. With real classes looming in the imediate future (aka tomorrow) it is begining to dawn on me how real this whole experience actually is. I think its going to take me a little while longer to actually be able to call this my home, temporary as it might be, but I am definitely getting slowly by slowly more used to the idea of waking up every morning in a country that does things just a little bit differently.

The end of the week wrapped up our Orientation classes. Wednesday our final art history class taught us about Renaissance art and architecture. The very brief overview gave a glimpse (keywords in this sentence, brief and glimpse) of the countless architectural feats and artistic masterpieces accomplished during this time just in Italy and mainly Florence alone. Having already taking several art history classes that focus on many things in Italy and a great number of them in Florence, I can hardly wait to be taking a Renaissance art class in the place where it all began. After a language class in the late afternoon, the day was given to us to do what we wanted with the knowledge that we would have exams on Friday.

A group of us decided that after studying for a few hours earlier that night, an movie in Italian would help. Granted it was a American movie, Inglorious Bastards or Bastardi Senza Gloria, which already had 4 languages in it(including Italian) and then the rest were dubbed in Italian. Even though I have seen countless Italian movies, seeing an American movie in Italian, in Italy was an entirely different experience. For starters, there is only one screen at the theatre. One large auditorium playing one movie at a time with many times throughout the whole day one following the next. Once you get your ticket after standing in the mass of people that some what resembles a line, meander over to the other large group of people that are attempting to form a second line to enter the theatre. The doors will open letting the last audience out though one set of doors and then you can proceed into the theatre through the other. But that is after you battle your way to the front of the "line" to give the solitary man your ticket stub as what seems like the rest of Italy does the same. If you expect to see any previews or trailers you will be sadly disappointed but instead Italians cut right to the chase and right to opening credits and away you go. Dont be alarmed in the middle of the film with the movie stops and the lights flash on - its only the intermission and will be over as suddenly as it came. For being a movie about things I have never learned the vocabulary for - they dont really teach you the words for beheading, scalping, bombs, and many different ways of killing in class strangely- I was able to understand (more or less) and enjoy the film. Note - if you are offended by a drop of blood I might suggest to skip this movie.


Thursday morning brought our last art visit with our art history class. After taking the wrong bus, getting terribly lost only to find out we were in the right place the first time, Claire and I made it to San Lorenzo. The church itself, from the outside is a simple, unfinished stone b
uilding. Once you get into the church however you realize why no one finished the outside - they were too busy with the inside. High coffered ceilings, frescos, and marble lined the walls from back to front. In the side chapel - Cappelle Medici - opens up a whole different set of wonders. The octagonal shaped chapel holds an overflowing amount of detailed marble work with a range of colors any sculpture would kill to have. In side rooms statues and funerary monuments by Michaelangelo line the walls.

After our art visit, a language class followed to further help us prepare for our test on Friday. After language I had my last 'in giro' which showed us all the good places to go to the theatre, a few different music spots, and where the University of Florence hides through
out the winding streets.
While we only saw a few buildings (one of them did happen to be the art history building) I can already tell the Italian educational system varies drastically from that in the United States. Putting aside the fact that one of the classrooms we saw used to be a church and therefore had frescos lining the walls and niches with statues, the laid back attitude Italians have with most everything in life definitely transfers to school as well. While not discounting the educational system, and knowing that it is, and will be a challenge, I think a major part of it has to do with peoples attitudes. You dont walk through the halls and feel the stress radiating off of the walls left behind from students. Then again, this is just a theory and I will have to see once I am actually in the place for real.

Friday brought the unpleasant knowledge that I would soon (aka in about 1.5 hours) having to take two tests in Italian. Generally I do not get that worried about tests (not anymore anyway). Ill get the pretest jitters but nothing too drastic. Friday morning I kept having the feeling that i should be nervous but tests were handed out filled out and handed back in and the nerved never came. What was strange though was taking a test in Italian. Even though I have been taking Italian classes and taking the tests in those, taking a test in Italian in Italy somehow was different. For me especially our art history exam but having to write everything in Italian threw me through a loop. At first I was at a loss of words because I could only think of how to say everything in English (granted I had been tested on all of it before but still). I soon got over it, and the text began flowing, and words that I didn't know that i knew poured out of the tip of my pen.

I spent the rest of the day wandering around with people in the on and off again rain before heading back to my house in the late afternoon. It was one of the girls, Victoria, birthday's on Friday so we all headed out for aparativos that night - literally all of the Smithies + all conversation partners + random friends = large group of fun. Everyone seemed to have a really wonderful time, and through a mixture of italian english and hand signals was able to communicate and enjoy everyone else's company. After aparativos we went to a discoteca to dance the night away.

Saturday brought a much sunnier day than the one before and also two old friends from high school, Lizzy and Brittany. I thought it should be, would be weird seeing them here in my new city but it was completely normal for some unknown reason. We first wandered through San Lorenzo market ( yes same place of earlier mentioned San Lorenzo church) looking at the countless leather, jewelry, and eclectic goods. After wandering for quite a while looking at so many countless things, a new leather purse magically made its way into my possession. Getting a ridiculously good discount just because or so said the salesman, I left with my new dark greyish purplish bluish (no really its pretty) with dark chocolate brown piping, leather bag. Every time I walk into my room the smell of leather engulfs me so pungent I want to swim in it.
In fact it seems to be taking me over right now, so as for right now I must go and enjoy it...

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

time tricks


For a city that never sleeps especially on weekends, even on Saturday mornings people are bustling throughout the city. Dodging tourists and vespas alike, Lenora, Olivia and I made our way over to the Bargello Museum. Filled to the brim of its old monastic stone walls with statues, reliefs and other assorted stone work and small little trinkets, the courtyard alone is a marvel to look at. Entering into a large open courtyard lined with amazing statue work, it is truly breathtaking. The combination of the old stone fortress- like walls adorned with countless stone family crests lining the top portion, and monumental statues in the corridors is truly a sight. After taking a moment to collect myself and attempt to take at least one thing in we began to make our way slowly through the courtyard constantly in awe of what we saw. When I finally came across the room with Donatello's David I, once again, was struck with a sense of disbelief that a pice that I have been staring at in text books for years was in front of me. The only problem I have with seeing these statues in person is that I have an almost uncontrollable urge to reach out and touch them. I have an extreme desire to be a part of such a monumental and beautiful piece of art and of history. I want to try and feel what the artist was when they created such a work and try and understand how they accomplished such a thing. The desire is deeper even than this and is almost consuming yet so far so good.The rest of the museum continually fascinated me both with the statues it held and the architecture itself. The cube like structure and pathways in between gave a sense that it would go on forever. It indeed might - we were only able to make it through two of the floors before out feet and immense hunger got the best of us.
We spent the rest of the day people watching, talking and window shopping and before we knew it it was time to walk home for dinner even though it seemed like we had just ate lunch.

Florence on a Sunday is a completely different experience than 24 hours prior. Store windows locked up, noticeably fewer bicycles and vespas zipping around in the streets, the din of italian spoken in the streets is considerably softer, and the only consistent flow of people are the tourists. Wandering around the mostly quiet and closed city for the day I tried and failed several times to picture Los Angels as tran
quil as this on a Sunday.

I woke in disbelief Monday morning to the thought that this was our third week, and final week of orientation. On the one hand it feels as if I have been here for so much longer, on the other as if I have just arrived. Monday was a blurr of language classes and my final history of Florence class. The rest of the day past in a continual blurr of Italian words some I understood and some I am still trying to figure out what it meant.

Today came a little to soon again with the feeling as if some time god was playing a joke on me. Im still asking myself how it can only be Tuesday but already be Tuesday in our 3rd week. I think this is right about the time I was talking about a little while ago when time starts slipping away from me all of a sudden its weeks later and I am still thinking its 2002. Pondering these things I walked to language class which was at Giovanna's appartment. We reviewed our reading and prepared a little for our exam (?!) on Friday. Being at Giovanna's also meant that I got my dog fix for the day with her two toy poodles - Cocco and Sparky. It also meant we got to have our last cooking class with Pam.

Literally bittersweet because although we all were looking forward to today's lesson it also meant we would have to start taking real classes and not be able take such an amazing class for credit.
Today we made not one not two but four different types of amazing risotto. 1 with saffron, 1 with asparagus, 1 with zucchini, and 1 with mushrooms. I believe I could have eaten all four in entirety if there was some way to stretch my stomach to allow such a thing. They all were so amazing. As if that were not enough, we also made a chicken with a spicy mustard caper sauce, and patate fritte aka french fries. And to top it all of Panna Cotta. Every bit I took (and I assure you there were many) was quite possibly better than the last.
I do believe I am still full. Yet if any of it were set in front of me right now I would have no problem eating it. I think I will be dreaming of i cibi italiani tonight...

Thursday, October 1, 2009

a few more days, a few more wonders.

It's only been a couple of days but it feels as if weeks have past in between. "They", whoever they might be - if you know can you tell me because I've always been curious as to who these people are and how you become one of "them", I think I would be good at that whatever it is that "they" do that is.. - anyway I digress. They say that time flies while you are having fun, while I certainly do know this to be the case more often than not, as of right now it seems that my days are extended and hours elongated. Perhaps its because everything over here starts later, stays opens later etc and maybe it has something to do with the fact that for the most part, everything is more relaxed. But it feels like a few days pass in between waking and sleeping each night, and no that is not because I have been out to all hours of the morning. Im just waiting for time to start moving at a head spinning pace as I know it will soon and for June to be here before I realize. For right now though I am taking my time walking though the city every day taking in each detail, making sure I look at everything everywhere I go and to make sure I soak up every last bit, not wanting to leave a crumb of knowledge left behind (sorry Hanzel and Grettle you will have to find your own way this time..)

This past week was, like last week, full to the brim of all things Italian. Tuesday rolled round bringing another language class but this time we were at a r
etirement home called "Casa di Riposo San Silvestro" instead of our normal lecture
with Giovanna(one of our director's here in Florence ). Spending a few hours with the residents there we talked with many of them, in Italian of course, which I actually found more difficult than I initially though it would have been. Sinc
e I still have a limited vocabulary especially about certain topics, holding and especially carrying conversations gets to be difficult. It was also challenging because a few of them were very hard of hearing and I dont think ever really understood what we might have been saying to them but you could tell enjoyed the company nonetheless. Also, I have found that when I look directly at the person speaking and try and lip read a little I am able to understand a bit more easily. Not that I might not have otherwise but since things are pronounced so differently in Italian I find it helps me understand and be able to visualize how to be able to say something. This being said, it was difficult to do this here because I found at least with the few people I spoke with, mumbled their words which in any language let alone one that you are not entirely secure with is hard. All in all though the morning was enjoyable for everyone.
Later in the afternoon, I had my "giro per Firenze" or walk through Florence.
This time we went acros
s the Arno to learn a bit about the other side of the city. Since we all live on one side and go to school on the same side, the times I have at least ventured over to the other side of the river before this were few and far between. (granted i have been here 2
weeks its not like i have had a surplus of time yet...)

Wednesday brought another set of art history, cooking and language classes. In our art history class we learned about gothic architecture and the difference between the gothic churches and cathedrals in France and in Italy. Even though I have studied both the types of gothic cathedrals in classes before this I have never done a exact comparison so I found it very interesting. Without much though you/I whoever would think a gothic church is a gothic church more or less anywhere all with the same sort of similar overall characteristics. I found it interesting though that some of the major parts of the church/cathedrals, the windows and roofs for example, differed quite greatly between the two countries.

Once again, our cooking class was delicious. Starting by literally whipping up some chocolate moose from a few eggs, chocolate and a refrigerator.

The serious business began with the home made gnocchi pasta. We
started, obviously, with some potatoes.
With a great deal of arm strength and a nifty contraption I obliterated the potatoes into mushy strings perfect for pasta making
(see picture - and note that this took lots of work).
Mixing in some four, eggs and a few other essential pasta ingredients the dough was ready to to be rolled and cut into our dumpling like shapes and heavily floured.

To go along with the pasta we made two sauces, a butter, sage and parmesan sauce and a tomato, vegetable sauce. As if two different types of pasta were not enough we made turkey as well. Slightly grilled in olive oil and then cooked in a tomato basil sauce we were finally ready to eat everything. finally.


Bright and early Thursday morning,

we met at Santa Croce for our "at sight" art history class.
I found it particularly interesting at Santa Croce because it was under restoration. Since it is something that I am interesting in pursuing for a career, to see people actually working such a monumental structure and artworks inside and for it to be their job was so amazing.
(If you quint you can see a woman in the picture who is ever so carefully repairing the frescos behind the altar- also behind scaffolding so a bit hard to see.)

Friday we had our weekly conversation class for two hours with our "conversation partners" - who are a random assortment people Giovanna knows through her sons, who work in the same office as Monica's (other director of the program) husband, or another long complicated Italian story. Exchanging slang terms, awkward phrases, things to say and not to say, hand gestures in a very oddly assembled group I think both Florentines and Smithies alike are getting something out of the peculiar mix of Italian/English conversations we usually end up having.

The rest of Friday afternoon was spent wandering the other side of the Arno River as we had done in out "in giro" a few days earlier with two other girls from the program, Tyler and Olivia. The sun baking on our necks, we walked in circles but at the time seemed like a logical path to take. We ended up at a vintage store on a side street filled with old forgotten items that at one point were I'm sure were someone's somewhere's favorite whatever it might be.
Friday night however switched gears from the relaxing wanderings of the day to a hubub of activity. We all decided since it was practically our first weekend in Florence that meant we had to celebrate by going to a discoteca. Dressed and ready to dance we headed out to meet up with everyone in Piazza Santa Croce ( yes, one and the same gothic church - its apparently a thing here to sit on church steps at night and drink -- we observed many italianites and others doing so). Once all 15 Smithies, 1 conversation partner (Alessio), and 2 of his friends ( Im so bad with names) had gathered we meandered to a nearby Irish/Italian pub with a live italian group doing covers of old American music. Intrigued and entertained we listened for the rest of their set before heading to the discoteca. The disco, Twice, was already buzzing with people by the time we got there yet all 15 Smithies entered without a problem. Alessio and his 2 friends however were denied entry because they were not "dressed appropriately". Apparently nice jeans - nicer jeans than any boy in the US- and a t-shirt didn't cut it for their "lookin-good" night. So dumb.
3 people down, the rest of us all went in and were overpowered by American music. I think the entire time we were there I heard 2 - at the most- Italian songs. The rest were all from the states, both popular now and 5 years ago. All together good just surprising. After countless songs and one or two new blisters formed we got home exhausted but very happy.

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

the little things.

I've noticed in my wanderings throughout the city that it is the little things that seem to make the biggest impression on me. The dilapidated bicycle on the side of the road or the cracked flower pot in the shuttered window. Its these little things that we dont have back in Los Angeles at least. If we do its just run down looking, somehow here its charming and intriguing. Maybe its just because its Italian but its just more aesthetically pleasing to see a rusty bike leaning up against a stone building centuries old than a concrete skyscraper built seven years ago.

I had time this morning so I took the slightly longer way to class and wandered through

the busy streets, trying to take time to notice all these little things. On the one main street I take to school is filled with store windows intriguing and beautiful enough to fill up a persons artistic comprehension (ok so I dont know if thats a thing, but Im jut gonna go for it..) for the day. One of my favorite stores is a wedding dress store called Atelier Aimèe. Ive never really been one of those girls that plans out every detail of their wedding ahead of time, never had any really ideas about any sort of thing like it really, just figured its so far into the future that why deal with stuff like that now. But every day I pass this store I am seriously tempted to go in and start trying on each of the beautiful dresses. Then I figure once I do that I will end up talking myself into needing one, you know just to hang out in, so I walk on the other side of the street and gaze at a safe distance.

I also always kept passing this little church. Yet day after day it would be closed. Naturally, I was intrigued and desperately wanted to go in, more just because it was closed than anything ( I figured it would be amazing I mean it is a church in Florence right?) This whole week though I have been gravely disappointed each day I have walked by, only to find people sitting on the steps eating a panino (no, not a typo in italian 1 sandwich is a panino and more than one is panini so really when you order 1 panini in the usa you should receive several) and drinking beer's (in Italy it is legal to drink and have open bottles of alcohol in the streets, so when you come visit me dont be surprised when several people walk by drinking open huge bottles of beer and what not). But finally today as I was walking by I glanced, saw the usual crowed, and I continued walking. But then heard intense organ music. Turning around I saw that the cute little church, Chiesa di Santa Maria de' Ricci, was indeed open! I ventured in and was enveloped by overpowering organ music. It was incredible to hear such sound resonating throughout such a tiny little church. The high ceilings allowed the sound to fill up every inch of the building and surround you totally. Like everything else in the church, the organ was not that large but the sound it produced was incredible. There was only one other man in the whole building siting in the front row, a little old man and was swaying back and forth and moving his hands as if he was conducting the music. The phenomenal sound, the little conductor man, the dim candle lighting in the middle of the afternoon was all a truly wonderful experience.

I had to tear myself away to go to my language class in which we further analyzed La Testa degli Italiani. Today we spoke about italian driving. A truly different driving experience than any other city. To Florentines, lanes are only suggestions of where maybe to drive, blinkers make nice noises only to be used when one feels like to, speed limits do not actually limit anyone, if you dont fit into a space while parallel parking - no problem just sorta park in the space with the rest of your car sticking out into the lane, pedestrians and bicyclists should stop for you after all a cross walk and just more suggestions in the road like the other lanes. Note : if walking in Florence always be on your guard, you never know when a car or vespa might come rumbling through at 900 mi/hr.

After, we had our history of Florence class. We spoke about the past government of Florence which got a little dense. In general though the class is very interesting. I always knew Florence had a deep history but never knew to what degree. Since so much of the Renaissance happened here, American history classes tend to only focus on that aspect of Florentine history but there are so many more interesting things in Florences's past that helped shape the wonderful city.

Friday, September 25, 2009

and this is only the beginning...





With sore blistered feet, twenty something bug bites, and a greater appreciation for the smell of leather, my first
week here, as incredible as it is to say, is over. Im still waiting for someone to come and pinch me or shake me awake from this dream. To think I get to be in one of the most beautiful, and exciting cities in the world for an entire year is overwhelmingly astonishing. Everywhere you look there is something different, distinctive, and
dazzling. The beauty is everywhere here from the crooked little alleyways, the alters on street corners, fruit and vegetable vendors stands,
(some of) the graffiti on the walls (note: I am not condoning graffiti on buildings just remarking that somehow Italians have found a way to not just do the standard tag graffiti over used in Los Angeles but have left their mark with some artistic feat I could only dream of producing) and so much more. Every step you take there is something new to discover, so dont be too jealous that I get to walk by the Duomo ever day on my way to school, it just happens to be the fastest route.

We started our week moving into our host family's house. I am living with a family of four, and one other girl, Claire, from Smith. The parents are named Lucia and Fillippo, and have two children a 13 year old boy, Vieri, and a 16 year old girl, Maria Chiara. They own a bicycle shop which is down the street from the apartment we are all living in ( yes it is one of those that has old stone on the outside, a huge wooden front door that is impossible to open, but once opened - after many failed attempts I might add - its a pretty modern two story apartment). So far they have been nothing but welcoming and overly nice. Im sure with time and getting to know one another, and once we are more well adjusted to each other and living together (not to mention my italian bit improved) it will become even better.

The first week of orientation was a blur of all things Italian. Cooking, art history, language, history, and conversation classes kept me busy and excited about each new thing. Learning about a city that has buildings older than my country and then actually being able to go and see them on the same day will never cease to amaze me. After learning and lusting after so many pieces of art, cathedrals, and worldly monuments for so long, to be able to see them in person, and not having to squint at a slightly off focus projector, fills me to the brim with happiness. The tastes and smells that fill the air of the Italian streets seep their way into my already full senses and will, Im sure, permanently remain there. Cheese, bread, salami, olive oil, gelato - will never be the same for me after this year, I can already tell even after only one week.

When in our cooking class, the sent of basil that filled the kitchen was so strong I most likely still smell like it, yet when combined with other things probably picked that morning was so discrete it made you wonder where it all went. Cooking in Italy is a truly sensory experience. With the recipe we received for the class there was not a single measurement or direction of what to do, only a list of the things we would be putting in each dish. Everything was done by memory, feel and taste. And yes it all tasted amazing. We made Pappa al Pompdoro, a soup like dish the main ingredients being bread and tomatoes, and vegetable broth, and let it become a nice thick consistency. Next, Panzella, a dish made with bread soaked in water, which you then squeeze out so it becomes a cous-cous like consistency, (see picture to the side for a Vanna White like demo-pic of Lenora and myself) then add vegetables and basil. After was Pollo in Friscassea, in which we covered the chicken in flour and cooked it in olive oil, later adding in the left over broth from the papa al pomodoro, an egg and basil of course. Lastly, we made Tiramisu (see picture).
Normally I do not like tiramisu, but when it is had made with hand- soaked biscotti in the liquore, and fresh mascarpone how could you not?


With our art history class we explored the San Miniato al Monte church which rests on top of a little hill overlooking the central part of Florence. While climbing the steep stone stairs, the eagle-toped church begins to appear followed by marbled facade and finally its arched doorways. It is yet another breathtaking church in Florence. Intricately laced and patterned marble floors fill the center nave of the church while colorful frescos of saints line the walls. In every detail truly breathtaking.


Wandering and exploring the city this past week have been filled with adventures. Finding new places to go to, restaurants, shops and everything in between there is never a dull moment. While leisurely wandering in the general direction of my house one afternoon, I came across the Duomo Museum hidden between tourist shops. You would never know from the outside that it opens up to a four storied building, filled to the brim with all of the original artwork and statues found in and on the Duomo. Most everything was in remarkably good condition for being place on the facade of the Duomo so many years ago. As I walked up the stairs I began to salivate as I saw Michaelangelo's Pietà. Originally intended for his own tomb, it depicts Michaelangelo himself as Nicodemus, one of the two men that took Jesus of the cross. It remains unfinished because he died before he was able to complete it and therefore was never placed on his tomb. I think i spent about 45 minutes alone just staring at this statue taking in its beauty. Unknowingly tears formed in my eyes, and in broken italian/english I tried to explain to this older German woman that indeed everything was alright, I was just overcome by the statue. I dont think she really understood me, or if she did why it was having this effect on me, but she was content enough that I was not going to have a melt down so she went on her way. The drastic contrast between the very defined figure on the right of the statue and the rougher statues on the right are incredible. To be able to see the midway process of how someone might get from a hunk of marble to something so incredible is fascinating to see.

After only a week I am already in complete love with this city, and can hardly wait for the coming weeks and moths to continue to discover more of the absolutely amazing place.